Vegetable seed varieties owned by Monsanto and it’s subsidiaries/brands

Here is a partial list of seed varieties that are owned by Monsanto that was recently compiled by Rosemary.  They are not GMO, however when you buy these varieties you are sending your money to Monsanto so if you intend to boycott Monsanto as much as possible it is best to avoid these.  Here are Rosemary’s notes:

“Hi all,
Recently, I’ve discovered that the “Safe Seed Pledge” taken by many garden vegetable seed companies only means those seed companies will not sell GMO seeds. It does not mean they are not selling seeds from the aggro-industry giants. Monsanto is likely the largest and best known of these companies.  At this time I will not comment further on Monsanto…

Over the last day or so, I’ve researched and created a list of all the vegetable seed varieties I could find which are owned by Monsanto and it’s subsidiaries/brands (Seminis and DeRuiter ) and which are sold in North America.  I was dismayed to see a great many names of vegetable varieties I had considered “classics” such as Big Beef, Better Boy and Patio tomatoes as well as Sweet Slice cucumber and Gold Rush zucchini.  This list does not include grains, dried peas & beans/soybeans, nor corn grown for reasons other than table corn (sweet corn). Monsanto owns over 2000 seed varieties, most of which are not presently for sale in North America so if you travel elsewhere, you will find a very different set of Monsanto owned seeds.

Please note that very, very few of the varieties on this list are GMO. Most are just the product of selective breeding (just as farmers have done for thousands of years).  I’m circulating the list so that you can make informed seed purchases.
Please feel free to circulate this list so other gardeners can also make informed choices.”

Beans, green
(Does not include dried)
BAO958
BAO999
BA1001
BA1006
EX08120703
SV1003GF
SV1137GF
Alacante
Brio
Bronco
Cadillac
Ebro
Eureka
Excalibur
Fiesta
Firstmate
Gina
Gold Dust
Gold Mine
Golden Child
Grenoble
Hercules
Labrador
Lynx
Magnum
Matador
Roman Gold
Serin
Slenderpack
Spartacus
Strike
Stringless Beauty Lake 7
Sunburst
Sybaris
Tapia
Teggia
Tema
Thoroughbred
Titan
Ulysses
Valentino

Broccoli
BC1691
Castle Dome
Coronado Crown
General
Heritage
Ironman
Legacy
Liberty
Lieutenant
Packman

Cabbage
Blue Dynasty
Constellation
Platinum Dynasty
Red Dynasty
Tropicana

Carrots
CR2289
PS07101441
SV2384DL
Bilbo
Cellobunch
Enterprise
Envy
Forto
Juliana
Karina
Propeel
Sweetness (series)
Tastypeel

Cauliflower
Cheddar (orange
cauliflower)
Cielo Blanco
Cornell
Freedom
Freemont
Juneau
Minuteman
Whistler

Corn (sweet)
EX08745857
EX08767143
QHW6RH1229
SC1102
SC1336
SV1077SD
SV1580SC
SV9010SA
SV9012SD
SV9014SB
SV9813SC
Absolute
Devotion
Fantasia
Merit
Obsession (series)
Passion (series)
Seneca Arrowhead
Sensor
Synergy
Temptation (series)
Vitality

Cucumber
CC&1040
DRL9510
SV3462CS
SV4220CS
SV4719CS
Arabian
Babylon
Camaro
Colt
Conquistador
Cool Breeze
Eldora
Emparator
Eureka
Excursion
Expedition
Fanfare
Darlington
Dasher (series)
Impact
Indy
Intimidator
Jawell
Jumbo
Marketmore (series)
Orient Express
PowerPak
Poinsett
Rockingham
Salad Bush
Sweet Slice
Sweet Sucess PS
Speedway
Talladega
Thunder
Thunderbird
Turbo
Unistars
Vlaspik
Valsset
Vlasstar

Eggplant
Fairy Tale
Gretel
Hansel
Night Shadow
Taurus

Lettuce
Annie
Braveheart
Bubba
Conquistador
Coyote
Del Oro
Desert Spring
Gator
Grizzly
Honcho
Javelina
Mohawk
Raider
Sahara
Sharpshooter
Sniper
Sure Shot
Top Billing
Valley Heart

Melons
PS04911714
SV0051WA
SV0241WA
SV0241WA
SV0258WA
WM8317
Apollo
Cabrillo
Caravelle
Charleston Grey
Colima
Cooperstown
Crimson Glory
Crimson Sweet
Cristpbal
Cronos
Delta
Destacado
Durango
Earli-dew
Earlisweet
Ever Summer
Fastbreak
Honey Dew Green Flesh
Hy-Mark
Jade Star
Laredo
Magellan
Majestic
Mickylee
Mission
Omega
Moonshine
Regency

Sweet Spot
Sweet Sunset
Valiant
Wizard

Santa Fe
Saturno
Sentinel
Starbright
StarGrazer
Tiger Baby
Wrigley
Zeus

Onions
EX07714593
SV4643NT
SV6646NW
SV6672NW
XP07716000
Aspen
Barbaro
Caballero
Candy
Century
Cougar
Elbrus
Exacta
Fortress
Goldeneye
Granex Yellow
Green Banner (green
onions)
Hamlet
Lasalle
Leona
Long Day Spanish
Short Day Granex
Montclair
Pecos
Red Zeppelin
Savannah Sweet
Sierra Blanca
Sterling
Stratus
Swale
Sweet Agent

Peas (green)
Ashton
Hacienda
Reliance

Spinach
Avenger
Barbados
Hellcat
Interceptor

Tomatoes
APT 401
PS01522935
PS01522942
PS345
PS438
SV7101TD
SV7631TD
DRC564
DRC1183
DRW
Amsterdam
Aurea
Beefmaster
Beorange
Better Boy
Big Beef
Biltmore
Bolzano
Burpee’s Big Boy
Caramba
Celebrity
Crown Jewel
Cupid
Debut
Dixie Red
Empire
Flora-Dade
Florida (series)
Foronti
Heatmaster
Health Kick
Huichol
Husky Red
Husky Cherry Red
Hybrid 46
Hybrid 882
Hypeel (series)
Komeett
Lemon Boy
Lorenzo
Maya
Merlice
Patio
Phoenix (series)
Picus
Pik Ripe 748
Pink Girl
Pio
Poseidon
Prunus
Puebla
Quincy
Sanibel
Santorange
Seri
Sunbrite
SunChief
SunGuard
Sunsugar
Sunoma
SunShine
Sunstart
Sweet Baby Girl
Tygress
Tomimaru Muchoo
Torero
Tye-Dye
Viva Italia
Yaqui
Zebrino

Squash, Summer
(including Zucchini)
XPT1832 III
SV6009YG
Ambassador
Conqueror (series)
Consul
Daisey
Depredador
Dixie
Embassy
Gemma
Gold Rush
Greyzini
Independence (series)
Judgement (series)
Justice (series)
Lolita
Papaya Pear
Patty Green Tint
Prelude (series)
President
ProGreen
Radiant
Senator
Storrs Green
Sunny Delight
Terminator

Squash, Winter
Autumn Delight
Butternight Supreme
Canesi
Early Butternut
Pasta
Taybelle PM

Squash – Pumpkin
Appalachian
Buckskin
Jamboree HG
Longface
Orange Smoothie
Phantom
Prizewinner
Snackface
Sprint
Spooktakular
Trickster
Wyatt’s Wonder

Sweet Peppers
DR0710PB
DR0713PB
PP0710
PS09941819
PS09941814
PS09942815
PS09979325
PS9915776
PS9927141
PS9928302
SV3255PB
SV3782PP
Antebellum
Antillano
Archimedes
Aristotle
Baron
Bell Boy
Big Bertha PS
Biscayne
Bounty
California Wonder
Camelot
Capistrano
Cherry Pick
Chocolate Beauty
Corno Verde
Dulce
Early Sunsation
Enterprise
Ethem
Excalibur
Fooled You
Gypsy
Huntington
Key West
King Arthur
MarRojo
Morraine
North Star
Orange Blaze
Petit Sirah
Pimiento Elite
Pimso
Plato
Prophet
Red Knight
Revelation
Sir Galahad
Socrates
Striker

Sweet Spot
Sweet Sunset
Valiant
Wizard

Hot Peppers

PS11435807
PS11435810
PS11446271
PX11404796
SV3198HJ
SV7017HJ
Aquiles
Ballpark
Big Bomb
Biggie Chile
Burning Bush
Cardon
Carribean Red
Cayenne Large Red Thick
Cherry Bomb
Chichen Itza
Chichimeca
Corcel
Coyame
Frenillo
Garden salsa
Grande
Holy Mole
Hot Spot
Hungarian Yellow Wax Hot
Inferno
Kukulkan
Major League
Mariachi
Mesilla
Mitla
Nainari
Nazas
Papaloapan
Perfecto
Rebelde
Rio de Oro
Sahuaro
Salvatierra
Santa Fe Grande
Sayula
Super Chili
Tajin
Tam Veracruz
Time Bomb
Tula
Tuxtlas
Vencedor
Victorioso

 

 

2014 Beans and Squash

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Beans and Squash Report 2014

What we grew:  Summer squash:  Amatista Grey (mildew resistant), Gold Rush, White Courgette.  We decided last year to no longer plant winter squash as the season is too short here.

Beans: Bush:  Tema, Royal Burgundy, other odds and ends.  Pole: Purple Peacock.  We also grew a few Red Celery plants with the bush beans as they are recommended as a companion.

 

Timing and planting:  Squash seeds were started at home in 3-4” pots by team members the last week of April, moved to the site under the covers mid-may and planted out May 23, under the covers.  Recommend this schedule (depending on weather)space plants minimum 20 inches apart.  You need to start 30-40 plugs, one seed per plug is fine and it’s OK if some don’t germinate.  Goal is 20-25 plants.  When planting, pick off any flowers (they can be eaten) to encourage the plants to grow bigger before starting to set fruit.  Milestones:  Started to see fruit forming July 13.

Bush beans were direct-sown May 31, under covers.  Pole beans were direct sown June 11, after the last frost, in an uncovered bed.  Recommendation:  if the weather is nice, plant the bean seed by the 3rd week of May, spacing the seed 3-4 across the bed (6-8 inches apart).  They germinate well and blank spaces can be filled in later.  Milestones:  bush bean plants emerged June 11 (10 days)  First blossoms July 13.

Celery:  plants were started in March and planted out June 16 (could have been done earlier).  Recommend plants to be started much earlier, maybe by the 1st week of February.  Other than never catching up in size, the plants grew very well and healthy.

 

Growing/harvest timing:  the 1st summer squash are usually ready to start harvesting the 1st week of August, when they are at least 5-6 inches long and the blossom has fallen off.  They will continue to produce into October if the weather permits.  The 1st bush beans will also be ready to start picking early August, when they get to about 4”long. They will produce into September but are usually done by the end of September.  Squash and beans can both get much larger and still be delicious, and Members should be instructed to harvest the very largest they can find to a minimum size of 5” for zukes and 4” for beans.  UNTIL a hard killing frost is forecast (or snowstorm) at which time everyone needs to get down to the garden and pick EVERYTHING before the plants get killed and food ruined.

 

Soil additives:  No soil or amendments were added this year, except eggshell powder was added to the holes when transplanting the squash, and in June a Gaia fertilizer application (4-4-4) was applied to all the Communal beds.  Recommend adding dolomite lime to the beds to increase calcium supply and avoid blossom end rot in the squash.  Recommend adding more soil/compost for volume to the covered beds.

Covers:  Beds had covers put on at the Opening work party May 11, to allow the soil to start heating up as beans and squash both need warm soil temperatures.  If the weather is nice this can be done as early as the start of May.  Note a thick heavy snowfall will collapse the covers so watch the forecast, no point doing anything if there is snow predicted.  Covers need to be secured taught to prevent sagging to work effectively, if there is a frost, any part of the plant that is touching the plastic will die back.  We left the covers on until the last week of June, taking them off during the day when necessary if the day was warm but then replacing to keep the temperature warmer over night.  At the end of June we left them off but stayed on standby in case there was a frost warning in which case we would have had to go down and put the covers on for the night.  The zucchini plants did not grow as large or produce as much fruit this year as they have in the past when covered more diligently all summer.  Wondering if the cold nights in July and August contributed to this, but also suspect it was the varieties we chose to plant this year, selecting mildew-resistance over productivity.  Soaker hoses were laid in the hoop beds to make it easier to water with the covers on.

 

Pests and DiseasesMay-June, we had some cutworms.  The squash plants were large enough by the time they were planted that they were not affected.  The celery was not affected.  We lost a few bush beans but not a big deal.  We sprinkled cornmeal around the plants and this worked really well.

In past years we have had a problem with powdery mildew on the squash leaves.  This was one of the reasons for leaving the beds uncovered all summer, to allow more air circulation.  Measures to reduce mildew include staying on top of the weeding and leaving the covers off as much as possible to promote air circulation, laying 2 soaker hoses along the length of the bed with the holes down to reduce the amount of water landing on the leaves, and rotating the beds.  2015 the beans should be grown in the South bed (closest to the front gate) and the squash should be grown in the North bed.  Mildew was not a problem for us this year.  If it does appear it can be cured easily by spraying with a 50/50 solution of cow’s milk and water on a sunny day.  The protein reacts with the sunlight to kill the mildew.  It works really well.  Note- in past years when we did have mildew, it did not affect the health of the plants or fruit production – it was just kind of gross.  Mildew usually appears early to mid July.

The slugs were awful this year!  They were prolific throughout the garden, but they love beans in particular (squash was not affected) and at least part of the reason we had them so bad this year was because the plants were too close and we as a team were very horrible at weeding so the bush bean bed, in spite of not being covered in july and August, was damp and humid with minimal air circulation and the slugs just loved it.   Despite the slugs eating their fair share, the bush bean crop was abundant and delicious.  Advice:  plants no more than  4 across (8inches apart), stay on top of the weeds, set out and maintain beer traps early in the season (it would be nice to find a way to NOT kill the black ground beetles though; they EAT slugs!) research ways to attract preditors of slugs into the bean bed.   There is also pick’n’squish, bait with a board or rhubarb leaf…  Pouring salt on them is not recommended as the salt will contaminate the soil.  August was Slug Season.

We had bad blossom end rot this year in spite of the eggshell in the hole.  Blossom end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency which might be due to lack of supply but may also be due to inability to absorb.  This year when we saw the rot again we made a solution of calcium in an easy-to-absorb form (not eggshell) (Tums solution) and sprayed it on the leaves, in the hopes the plant would absorb some calcium quickly and the new fruits would not have the rot.  Plants can absorb nutrients through their leaves the same way we can absorb mineral spirits and nicotine through our skin.  This needs to be done after peak sun hours, late afternoon or evening.  Recommend dolomite lime to be added to the soil to ensure a ready supply of calcium to the plants, and consistent but not over – watering to ensure healthy roots that can absorb the nutrients needed.  Once the plants start to set fruit, end of July into August, you will see if there is blossom end rot by looking at the forming fruits.  It cannot be reversed in fruits where it already exists but it can be avoided in new fruits on the same plant if you can get calcium into the plant.  Tomatoes had the same problem.

There was also some kind of leaf-cutter insect that took sections of squash leaves, very symmetrically.  Not sure what it was or how to prevent it. (update: I think it might have been leaf cutter bees.  The plants were still healthy.)

There is an ant nest toward the middle of the South Bed, and another at one end of the pole bean bed.  Ants don’t really do anything bad though (unless they are leaf-cutter ants?!)  Tiny little black ants.  They may be farming aphids somewhere but I didn’t really notice it, mostly just a be-aware thing as it’s kind of gross to look down and your hand is swarmed with little ants.

Seed:  Bush Beans – we have plenty of Tema and Royal Burgundy for 2015.  Pole beans were a failed experiment, they grew and were beautiful plants but died before they could set fruit.

Summer squash:  order Amatista Grey (for the mildew resistance), Jackpot (green), Goldie (yellow), Black Beauty (dk.green).

Celery: lots of seed left.

Team organization:  We made a schedule on Google Docs assigning each Team Member a fixed day of the week to be responsible to check on the garden, water if needed, remove or put on covers if needed, and report anything of interest to the Team.  We were to get another team member to cover our day if we were going to be away.  This worked well and everything stayed alive and healthy.  Everyone was supposed to weed whenever they could and I think I was the only one doing trouble shooting and pest control but that wasn’t on purpose.  Everyone was welcome to call work parties if they wanted to and we got together a few times early in the season to plant but as summer progressed our schedules did not match up well.

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Red Fife Bread

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Red Fife Wheat Bread

Red Fife contains less gluten than regular whole wheat flour and so it does not rise or spring as much, instead making a dense, chewy, nutritious and delicious bread.  I have done many experiments and have found that no matter what, it makes better buns than loaves, and as a loaf you get a kind of flat focaccia type shape.  If you are using loaf pans, put more dough in each, to about 1-2 inches from the top of the pan in order to get a functional sized slice for sandwiches.  I have tried just whole red fife flour, adding gluten in varying amounts, and adding white AP flour in varying amounts.  Just Red Fife gives the best flavour.  For a “fluffier”(using the term loosely) texture I like to include 1-2 cups of AP flour.  I do not like the texture from added gluten, if you do decide to add gluten I would recommend not adding more than 1 tablespoon to the sponge.  I have found Red Fife to be “dry” and when adapting a recipe get the best results if I reduce the total amount of flour, ending up with a slightly tacky, soft dough.   I use a mixmaster to mix and knead the dough and then bake it in the oven.  Also, when rising the dough I cover it loosely with plastic wrap or foil, the old-fashioned way is to cover with a damp towel but I found I was getting lint on my bread.  If you don’t like the dough to stick to your hands when shaping the loaves you can grease your hands with olive oil or butter.  I buy organic Red Fife flour from Heritage Harvest Farm in Strathmore, Alberta.  Farm Box may be carrying it soon, but in the meantime it is available at Community Natural Foods in Calgary.

Stir together:

3cups warm water

2 packs yeast

1/3 cup honey

2 cups white AP flour

3 cups whole Red Fife flour

Let rise until big and bubbly

Knead in:

3 tablespoons melted coconut oil or butter

1/3 cup molasses

1 tablespoon salt

3-1/2 to 4 cups whole red fife flour

Knead for 8-10 minutes

Let rise to about doubled.  Punch down and divide into rolls or loaves.  Let rise, bake in preheated oven at 350 degrees for 25-50 min. watching to not overbake.  You can tell the bread is ready when you knock on the crust and it sounds hollow.

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http://www.heritage-harvest.ca/

https://limeleavesandtastebuds.wordpress.com/2010/04/09/reasons-to-love-red-fife/